AC DELCO

http://www.acdelco.com/html/catalog/

STANDARD

http://www.smpcorp.com/web_app/catalog/publicweb_bg.asp

BORG WARNER

http://www.borgwarnerbrand.com/#

These are just some part numbers I want to keep up with. Prices are “dealer” prices.

STC8369 -> Lucas Distributor Cap -> $44.43
STC1857 -> Ignition Rotor -> $41.77
NRC9770 -> Union Nut (fuel pump assembly) -> $8.23
NRC9771 -> Loose olive (fuel pump assembly) -> $2.64
BAU5311l -> Clock bulb -> $12.48
ESR500 -> Fuel pipe -> $65.40
NTC5859 -> Fuel tank grommet ->
WFE500740K -> Fuel tank
YBE100540 -> Speed Sensor -> $121

Gas is a funny subject…especially when its so expensive now. I’ve used cheap and expensive. Here are my findings:

93 octane vs 87 octane

No difference. Runs the same no matter what the level is

Additives

I have noticed a difference in power when using 87 octane and an octane booster….the STP brand in the orange bottle. The truck was more responsive and ran smoother…

I still believe 93 is a waste of money and i think any additive will really give you a performance boost.

Engine temperature vs 87 octane

I have noticed a significant difference when running 87 octane and using a 190 degree (or more) thermostat. I read somewhere that lower octane needs higher temperatures to burn, in case you need some background before you decide to go to the local auto parts store and buy a high temp therm.

The only downside: the engine will be pretty hot…especially in the summer months, so you may want to run a super-coolant additive and/or use a failsafe thermostat.

No one seems to carry the exotic LR thermostat….but apparently everyone carries the one that fits…..

AC DELCO
->12T1F -> OEM 192 degree
->12T1E -> 195
->12T1B -> 180

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee L6 4.0
-> Stant Superstat 195 degree -> 45359 ->partsamerica($7)

Since the temp fluctuates so much, using a fail safe thermostat (autozone, actually listed under LR D1) is useless…It will last about 3 months before it “detects” an overheat and locks open.

I suggest paying some money for a HD or high performance therm.

Another crucial emmissions piece. They say you need to drain your radiator to install, but thats really unnecessary. Just unscrew/screw quickly.

1989 Saab 900 L4 2.0 -> GP Sorensen 385029 -> partsamerica($18)

partsamerica actually has a temperature sensor listed for the Disco, but the local Advance Auto isnt able to order it.

standard TX107 ($20)

The stepper motor is quite delicate and often gets screwy @20k to 30k miles. Its also called the throttle body and idle air control valve. I personally like the echlin brand, but the price went from $30 to $60…midas well get the DELCO since it seems to last 3 times as long.

1995 Chevy Tahoe
mileage plus -> MPF31738 ->napa ($32)
Echlin -> CRB21738 -> napa ($59)
GP Sorensen -> 77910003 -> partsamerica ($28)
Niehoff -> 21738 -> partsamerica ($40)
AC/DELCO -> 217437 -> GM dealer ($74)

Unfortunately, only lucas parts will work. If you use anything else, you’re gonna misfire or not pass inspection. There seems to be an issue of craftsmanship that either the US part makers or Lucas screws up.

I bought the Beck/Arnley version from partsamerica and unlike the Lucas, it had a dull, rough finish and fit loosely. The Lucas part was shiny and fit like a glove.

If you plan on splashing around in the water, you may want to just buy the Lucas…Its blue, btw.

Atlantic British has the best deal for them.

As far as wires, rumor has it that the Lucas “leads” are the only wires that will work. That’s a myth. However, you cant just buy any type of wires. I’ve had success with Autolite Pro wires i bought from partsamerica.

Rover connection sells the high dollar Magnacor wires and atlantic british has the “updated” rover wires.

Napa also has a set (1756008 -> $42)

If your rover starts to misfire at mid range speeds, this sensor might be trashed. Its designed to misfire at high speeds to slow your truck down.

My first run-in with relays happened when my disco mysteriously died. I had ruled out everything but the relays and EFI ECU (those were the only things I didnt replace)

Anyway, after checking rangerovers.net, I found out that the relays are available at NAPA. After doing some cross referencing, I found out that the same relays are used in a 1997 Crown Vic.

GP Sorensen MR76 -> partsamerica($10)

Turns out, it was a bad connection from the alternator to the main fuse box, causing the battery to die.

Also, these relays dont work for the main EFI relay or fuel pump relay…..You may want to consider just picking up the bosch relays from atlantic british

These things suck. But if you need to pass emissions, you’ve got to replace them.

The alternate part is Bosch 13021 and fits a 1987 Nissan Sentra. ($65)

I also have a AC/DELCO part# of 213534.
and NGK 24005

Autozone normally keeps these in stock at local stores.