URLs

AC DELCO

http://www.acdelco.com/html/catalog/

STANDARD

http://www.smpcorp.com/web_app/catalog/publicweb_bg.asp

BORG WARNER

http://www.borgwarnerbrand.com/#

LR Part Numbers I like to keep up with

These are just some part numbers I want to keep up with. Prices are “dealer” prices.

STC8369 -> Lucas Distributor Cap -> $44.43
STC1857 -> Ignition Rotor -> $41.77
NRC9770 -> Union Nut (fuel pump assembly) -> $8.23
NRC9771 -> Loose olive (fuel pump assembly) -> $2.64
BAU5311l -> Clock bulb -> $12.48
ESR500 -> Fuel pipe -> $65.40
NTC5859 -> Fuel tank grommet ->
WFE500740K -> Fuel tank
YBE100540 -> Speed Sensor -> $121

the great GAS debate

Gas is a funny subject…especially when its so expensive now. I’ve used cheap and expensive. Here are my findings:

93 octane vs 87 octane

No difference. Runs the same no matter what the level is

Additives

I have noticed a difference in power when using 87 octane and an octane booster….the STP brand in the orange bottle. The truck was more responsive and ran smoother…

I still believe 93 is a waste of money and i think any additive will really give you a performance boost.

Engine temperature vs 87 octane

I have noticed a significant difference when running 87 octane and using a 190 degree (or more) thermostat. I read somewhere that lower octane needs higher temperatures to burn, in case you need some background before you decide to go to the local auto parts store and buy a high temp therm.

The only downside: the engine will be pretty hot…especially in the summer months, so you may want to run a super-coolant additive and/or use a failsafe thermostat.

Thermostat

No one seems to carry the exotic LR thermostat….but apparently everyone carries the one that fits…..

AC DELCO
->12T1F -> OEM 192 degree
->12T1E -> 195
->12T1B -> 180

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee L6 4.0
-> Stant Superstat 195 degree -> 45359 ->partsamerica($7)

Since the temp fluctuates so much, using a fail safe thermostat (autozone, actually listed under LR D1) is useless…It will last about 3 months before it “detects” an overheat and locks open.

I suggest paying some money for a HD or high performance therm.

Temp Switch

Another crucial emmissions piece. They say you need to drain your radiator to install, but thats really unnecessary. Just unscrew/screw quickly.

1989 Saab 900 L4 2.0 -> GP Sorensen 385029 -> partsamerica($18)

partsamerica actually has a temperature sensor listed for the Disco, but the local Advance Auto isnt able to order it.

standard TX107 ($20)

Stepper Motor-IACV-Throttle Body

The stepper motor is quite delicate and often gets screwy @20k to 30k miles. Its also called the throttle body and idle air control valve. I personally like the echlin brand, but the price went from $30 to $60…midas well get the DELCO since it seems to last 3 times as long.

1995 Chevy Tahoe
mileage plus -> MPF31738 ->napa ($32)
Echlin -> CRB21738 -> napa ($59)
GP Sorensen -> 77910003 -> partsamerica ($28)
Niehoff -> 21738 -> partsamerica ($40)
AC/DELCO -> 217437 -> GM dealer ($74)

Rotor, Distributor Cap & Spark Wires

Unfortunately, only lucas parts will work. If you use anything else, you’re gonna misfire or not pass inspection. There seems to be an issue of craftsmanship that either the US part makers or Lucas screws up.

I bought the Beck/Arnley version from partsamerica and unlike the Lucas, it had a dull, rough finish and fit loosely. The Lucas part was shiny and fit like a glove.

If you plan on splashing around in the water, you may want to just buy the Lucas…Its blue, btw.

Atlantic British has the best deal for them.

As far as wires, rumor has it that the Lucas “leads” are the only wires that will work. That’s a myth. However, you cant just buy any type of wires. I’ve had success with Autolite Pro wires i bought from partsamerica.

Rover connection sells the high dollar Magnacor wires and atlantic british has the “updated” rover wires.

Napa also has a set (1756008 -> $42)

Speed Sensor

If your rover starts to misfire at mid range speeds, this sensor might be trashed. Its designed to misfire at high speeds to slow your truck down.

Relays

My first run-in with relays happened when my disco mysteriously died. I had ruled out everything but the relays and EFI ECU (those were the only things I didnt replace)

Anyway, after checking rangerovers.net, I found out that the relays are available at NAPA. After doing some cross referencing, I found out that the same relays are used in a 1997 Crown Vic.

GP Sorensen MR76 -> partsamerica($10)

Turns out, it was a bad connection from the alternator to the main fuse box, causing the battery to die.

Also, these relays dont work for the main EFI relay or fuel pump relay…..You may want to consider just picking up the bosch relays from atlantic british

O2 Sensor

These things suck. But if you need to pass emissions, you’ve got to replace them.

The alternate part is Bosch 13021 and fits a 1987 Nissan Sentra. ($65)

I also have a AC/DELCO part# of 213534.
and NGK 24005

Autozone normally keeps these in stock at local stores.

K&N Cone

Partsamerica sells this one.

RU3570 -> $38

1. Take out the stock air box.
2. Cut about half the cylinder part off of the top part of the stock air box.  Test fit to make sure you can tighten the cone. Once satisfied, tighten cone
   
3. Attach cone to the MAF.  It will sit on top of the shock tower but you may need to zip tie it to the ABS pump.

Note & (Disclaimer): You will get more power, but you will loose snorkel compatablility and the oil will damage the MAF..and Rover MAF’s aint cheap.  Do at your own risk.

Fuel Pump

Every 100,000 it will go out.

Rangerovers.net has the alternate parts for this, but doesn’t really list what car to search for.

1989 Pontiac Firebird -> AC/DELCO EP240 -> autozone ($62)

Don’t forget the strainer:

1988 Pontiac 6000 -> Master FS3 ($7)

Again, rangerovers.net have the directions to install. Once you wire, the next time it goes out, you just unplug and replace.

4×4wire.com also has pretty good instructions.

If you decide to go with a different pump, remember the rover needs the correct PSI or you will never get it started.

Fan Switch

The fan switch seemed to be the one part I should have replaced when I was investigating “code 44″ turns out that this switch not only controls the auxiliary engine fan, but tells the EFI ECU how hot the engine is. If it never clicks on, the engine will run in “open” loop mode.

I found that a 1982 Volks Vanagon had the alternate part for about $8
GP Sorensen 405022 -> partsamerica.com

You will need to pop out the plastic to fit the stock plug. I just used a needle nose plier.

Fan Clutch Fan

Apparently the plastic fan breaks after @60k….replace it with a steel one that’s designed better.

18in counter clockwise (rotation from front of vehicle)

1996 Ford Mustang Lx V6 3.8
Imperial 220638 -> partsamerica.com -> $46

there are also a few available on summitracing.com

Fan Clutch

You’re supposed to change this $300+ part every time you change the water pump.

1998 Chevy Blazer V6 4.3 w/AC
Imperial 215158 -> partsamerica.com -> $67

usually in-stock at advance auto

Exhaust

Headers

Since the rover is a buick, you can install headers. What they don’t tell you is that you will have to redo your entire exhaust.

Headman Headers -> HED39800 ->$136 (summit racing)

Ohh, you may have to replace these in a few years…unless you put a few more coats of paint and wrap ‘em with thermal wrap. Also, you will need the header reducers with the O² sensor adapters.  Drivers side will drop into place after some fooling, the passenger side will require you to remove the starter heat shield.

Cats

Summit racing’s universal converters will do fine. CTO-6006

Just take your rig to the nearest Meineke and get it welded up. Disco 1 will take a 2 1/2 in. single exhaust.  Disco 2 can take duals.

Coil

These things rarely go out.

Also, dont be fooled. The rover doesn’t need a high wattage coil (Accel). In fact it will run worse. Just keep it standard unless you’ve upgraded to some DUI system.

1992 Range Rover -> GP Sorensen 245032 -> partsamerica ($32)

Charcoal Cannister

I found alternate part numbers for carbon canisters:

1991 BUICK SKYLARK (3.3L)
BUICK PARK AVENUE
BUICK SKYLARK CUSTOM and some Pontiacs

GM part# 17093147 -> $89 (dealer)
GP Sorensen 77922026
Standard CP1027
AC/Delco part# 215125

Brake Check Valve

I broke my check valve fooling around with an air leak. I tried to apoxy it, but it didnt seal and I had no brakes. I went to the local Pep Boys and matched it up with a part from the “HELP” parts section. It was for a chrysler and was $4.00.